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Eggsquisite eggs become the centrepiece of a celebratory array of savoury specials, with a special focus on the most delicate and beautiful of them all: the speckled brown treasures produced by quails. Pickled quail egg, smoked trout and celeriac salad well repays the fiddly work involved and quail egg ravioli is even more impressive. Quail egg and ham hock tarts and individual cheesy custards keep things dinky, while Croque Madame or moules might suit the more robust palette.